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When compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.